The Lost History of Perfume (Scent, Power, and Empire)

A cultural journey through the world of fragrance, weaving together ancient tradition and modern artistry to tell the untold history of our favorite perfume trends of today.

Scent’s grip on how we feel and what we remember is distinct from our other senses. Unlike sight, sound, or touch, smells bypass the brain’s central relay, going straight to the limbic system where we process emotions and store memories. This means that a single whiff of perfume can instantly evoke nostalgia, moving us in ways we cannot always explain.

Based on months of on-the-ground reporting across four continents, The Lost History of Perfume delves into the untold story of perfume and what the future of fragrance will look like. Perfume has fascinated every civilization for millennia, evolving from a tool for ancient rituals to a $50 billion global industry. But long before France bottled its fame, Arabia perfected the art of scent—not just as a measure of beauty and attraction but also as a display of power. Yes, Chanel revolutionized fragrance with No. 5, Guerlain’s Shalimar reshaped how the East was imagined, and Tom Ford’s Oud Wood brought the scented wood, beloved in East Asia and the Arab World, to the streets of London, Paris, and New York. But the East, which gave the world much of these ingredients and techniques, has been written out of its own history.

The Lost History of Perfume lifts the veil on the perfume monopoly, interrogates the “fraghead” revolution, and explains what sustainable choices can look like. Here, Egyptian American journalist Ola Salem takes readers on an immersive cultural journey, from Cleopatra’s perfume factories to the modern-day Sephora counter, from the jasmine fields of Egypt to the frankincense trees in Oman, to shine a light on the oft-overlooked corners, cultivators, and creators of the fragrance world.